Woven fabric



stretch and sag, a tendency to fray,

Patented Aug; 12,

' UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE WOVEN FABRIC Sidney n. Scheuer, New York, Y. Application March 1, 1941, Serial No. 381,349

4 Claims.

My present invention relates generally to fabrics, and has particular reference to an improved woven fabric having, among other advantages, the characteristic that it closely simulates a. knitted fabric both in appearance and feel.

composed of synthetic yarn, are widely used for a variety of purposes, including the manufac-- as exceptional draping quality which allows the fabric to conform to the lines of the body more closely than any of the ordinary woven fabrics heretofore produced in an effort to simulate it. Counter-balancing these features, however, are certain disadvantages, including a tendency to a high cost 'of finishing, and diiilculties in finishing and on the cutting table.

It is a general object of my invention to pro- So-called "jersey knit fabrics, especially those tinuous synthetic yarn, and are of predetermined relative weights and threads per inch, the resultant finished fabric not only resembles but also simulates the soft and smooth feel and draping characteristics of a knitted fabric composed ofsimilar synthetic yarns.

I have found by experimentation that neither the particular weave by itself, nor the mere use of voile twist filler, produces the desirable effect which I have been able to attain. The combination of these features, however, seems tobe uniquely effective in'producing the simulation which is the basic objective.

I achieve the foregoing objects and such other objects as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, in the manner illustratively exemplified in .the accompanying drawing in which:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary enlarged plan view of a section of the present improved fabric, as it appears after finishing, when it is resting 1 against a dark background and is examined vide a fabric of woven character, capable of manufacture in a simple and inexpensive man-- ner upon a dobby loom, or even on a simple cam loom, which closely simulates the appearance and feel of a knitted fabric of the foregoing character, and which, becauseit is woven rather than knitted, is devoid of the general disabilities and disadvantages of a knitted fabric.

I have found that this desirable result can be accomplished by employing a particular type of weave, and by employing warp and filler threads of predetermined kind and twist, and

of predetermined relative weights and threads per inch.

The particular weave that I have found to produce the desired finished result is' of the general type in which the warp threads comprise similar adjacent groups with which the filler threads interweave. The weaveis characterized bythe fact that the outer warp threads of each group are each in simple woven relation to the filler threads, while the inner warp threads of each group are woven so as to float successively over and under at least two filler threads.

The present invention is predicated upon the discovery that if the filler threads have-a voile twist imparted thereto, the warp thread groupunder a magnifying instrumentality; J Figure 2 is a diagrammatic view of the manher. in which the warp and filler threads of Fig- 'ure 1 are interwoven;

Figures 3, 4, and 5 are diagrammatic views similar to Figure 2, illustrating various possible modifications.

, Referring first to Figure 2, it will be observed that the filler threads ill interweave with successive groups of warp threads. One such group is composed of the warp threads II, l2, l3, and

"I4, a second group is composed of the warp threads l5, I8, l1, and I8. These groups are identical, and a description of the manner in which one of these groups interweaves with the filler threads will be suflicient to explain the structural nature of the entire fabric.

In the particular embodiment of the invention which I have chosen to illustrate in Figures 1 and 2, and which has 'proven in practice to be highly satisfactory in} accomplishing the present objective, the warp threads in each group are four in number. It will be observed that the outer warp threads of each group, such as the threads II and Il areeach in simple woven relation to the filler threads It. By the term "simple I refer to the fact that each of the warp threads II and I4 passes over one filler thread, then under the next, and

so on in single succession. The warp thread of one side of the group, however, such as the warp thread II, is opposite in phase from the warp thread at theother sideof the group, such as the thread II. This is important, because V is an enlarged view is composed each warp thread being inner warp thread 13 floats under and over the same fllier threads, respectively. That is, any two fllier threads Iii that pass underneath the warp thread I! will then pass over the adjacent warp thread l3, and viceversa.

An important feature of the invention, directly contributing to the desired result, lies in the .fact that the fllier threads ill have a one-way voile twist imparted to them. By the term "voile twist, I intend to refer to a twist of approximately 25-30 turns per inch, as is well known in the art. The use of this voile twist fllier causes the warp thread groupings to become accentuated, thereby imparting a unique ribbed effect to the fabric. v'I'hatis to say, the four warp threads in each group have a tendency to squeeze together in the form of a bundle, leaving a slight but noticeable gap between that' particular group and the groups on each side.

In actual practice, the threads assume the relationship shown most clearly in Figure 1, and in this flgure I have designated two groups of warp threads by the same reference numerals as are employed in Figure -2. Thus, the group of four warp threads ll'--il produces a sort of rib 20, the adjacent group of warp threads l5--i8v produces an adjacent rib 2 l and the other similar groups of warp threads produce similar additional ribs which I have designated by the reference numeral 22. The ribbed effect is enhanced by the fact that the inner warp threads ofeach group, such as the threads l2 and i3 in'the group 20, and the threads l6 and i1 in the group 2|, rise from the fabric to a slight extent, and are free to spread out by virtue of their floating relationship to the successive pairs of fllier threads.

The tendency of the warp thread groupings to separate from one another appears to be the direct result of the employment of voile twist flllers; and the resultant spacing. manifests itself by rows of open spaces which appear as shown in black in Figure 1 when the fabric is laid against a darker background.

The similarity between the present woven fabric and a knitted fabric may not be clearly apparent from an inspection of Figure 1. because of the enlarged scale on which the threads are shown in this figure for the purpose of illustration. The actual fabric, however, is unusually similar, both in appearance, texture, and handie," to a knitted fabric composed of similar synthetic yarns.

way, and having substantially the same number of threads per inch, respectively, but with the filler threads having no voile twist and having only the normal twist of approximately 2 turns per inch, is of noticeably different appearance and feel, and is totally devoid of the proper ribbed effect for producing a simulation of a knitted fabric. Similarly, the use of a crepe twist fllier, i. e., a fllier thread having .close to 50 turns per inch, produces a fabric which is much too dense in textureand feel to simulate the characteristics of a jersey knit fabric. 1

It may be observed, also, that fabrics in which a voile twist fllller is used (such as the well known French crepe fabrics), but which do not employ the unique type of weave which I have herein described and illustrated, have an appearance and feel, after the usual finishing process, that is totally different from the present desirable result.

While rayon is mentioned in the specific example hereinbeforegiven, I have found that the present efiect can be produced with any continuous synthetic yarn, such as acetate yarn or the like. By the term continuous I intend to distinguish from a spun yarn which does not seem to act in the same way and by means of which I have been unable to produce the present result,- 1

In the specific example given, the relationship between the number-of warp threads per inch and the number of fllier threads'per inch is 140 to 76. It will'be understood that this ratio can be varied to sui-t'diifering requirements, but that the proportion of approximately 2 to 1 has proven most effective. Similarly, while the respective weights of warp threads and fllier threads may be varied from the specific example mentioned, it should be noted that the best" results are achieved, especially for dress goods and the like, when the fllier threads have a weight that is approximately between 100% and 175% of the weight of the warp threads.

I have found that the weave itself can be varied, within certain limits, without departing from the achievement of substantially the same effect.

As a specific example of-one manner in which this desirable result can be accomplished, it may be observed that the fabric of which Figure 1, of a continuous rayon yarn, having 140 warp threads to the inch,

denier 60 filament rayon, and 76 fllier threads to the inch, of

denier 90 filament rayon with a voile twist.

Experiments have shownthat a fabric composed of the same threads, woven in the same 7 For example, the number of warp threads in each group may be increased from four to flve, or even six. Where fewer than four threads are used in each group, the resultant ribbing is generally too fine to produce the desired appearance. Where more than six threads are used in each group, the ribbing usually becomes too conspicuous.

Similarly, the manner in which the inner threads 'of each warp grouping may be floated over'and under the filler threads may be slightly varied.

Examples of some ofthese possible modifications are shown in Figures 3, 4, and 5.

In Figure 3, I have diagrammatically illustrated a fabric in which the voile twist fllier threads 25 are interwoven with warp thread groupings of which the group 26 is typical. There are four warp threadsl'l, 28, 29, and "in this group. Each of the outer threadsj'l and "is in simple woven relation to the fllier threads 25, as in Figure 2. Each of the inner warp threads 28 and 19-, however, is caused to float over and under three fllier threads at a time, instead of two. As before, however, the outer threads 21 and ill are opposite in phase, and the same is true with respect to the inner. threads 28 and 29. That is, each group of three fllier threads that passes over the warp thread 28 proceeds to pass to the fillerthreads 3!,as before.

under the adjacent warp thread 29 and vice versa.

In Figure 4, I have illustrated a fabric in which the voile twist fiiler threads 3| are interwoven with groups of warp threads of which the group 32 is typical. This group is composed of the four warp threads 33, 34, 35, and 3G. The outer warp threads, 33 and 36 are in simple woven relation Each of the inner warp threads 34 and 35, however, floats over three filler threads, then under two, and so on. In each case, the group of filler threads that passes over either of the warp threads 34 and 35 proceeds to pass under the adjacent one of these threads,- and vice versa.

v In Figure 5, I have illustrated a modified construction in which the voile twist filler threads ti interweave with groups of warp threads of which In general, it will be understood that those skilled in the art may make changes in the details herein described and illustrated without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims. It is, therefore, intended that these details be interpreted as illustrative, and not in a limiting sense. I

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: I

1. A finished woven fabricjcomposed of warp and filler threads of continuous-filament synthetic yarn, the warp threads consisting of groups with which the filler threads interweave the warp threads in. each group being no less than four and no more than six in number, the outer warp threads of each group being each in simple woven relation to the filler threads, each of the inner warp threads of each group being woven so as to float successively over and under groups of at least two filler threads each, the adjacent inner A said warp thread groupingstend to become ac- 42, proceeds to pass under or over the adjacentone of these threads, respectively.

Other possible modifications will be apparent from these illustrative examples.

The advantages of the present improved woven fabric will be readily appreciated by those skilled in the art. Not only does it have the desirable characteristics of looking like a knitted fabric, and having the soft feel of such knitted fabric, but it has the added anvantage of being inexpensively manufacturable on a simple loom, such as a dobb'y loom or a cam loom. It has a desirable close weave, it is easy to handle on the cutting table, e. g., it doesnt slide and can be cut in vastly larger layers, and it has excellent draping qualities, with no tendency to sag.

Moreover, theuse of a voile twist filling reduces the tendency of "shading" that frequently manifests itself when a filler is used of untwisted yarn.

The present improved fabric is therefore of wide applicability in connection with plain shades or open-spaced print patterns.

centuated and thereby impart a ribbed effect to the fabric, said fabric simulating the appearance,

feel, and other favorable characteristics of a knitted fabric composed of similar continuousfilament synthetic yarn.

2. A finished woven fabric asset forth in claim 1, the number of warp threads per unit length being approximately twice the number of filler threads per unit length, and the filler threads having a weight that is approximately between and of the weight of the warp threads.

3. A finished woven fabric as set forth in claim 1, each of said inner warp threads, floating successively over and under groups of three filler threads each.

4. A finished woven fabric as set forth in claim 1, each of said inner warp threads floating successively over and undergroups of three and two filler threads respectively.

SIDNEY H. scmrmsn. 

